Okay, I will try not to write too much per day but I think I have a weeks worth of riding and thoughts to put down. I have loved been in Wales, it has brought back so many memories and i have fallen in love with the country all over again. I really want to come back to have a holiday and explore some of the areas in more detail. I wish I had spent more time exploring the country when studying here. It is amazing how we take it for granted when its on our doorstep.
Day 27 (13th August) Round the Gower and then onto Carmarthen
Miles Cycled 86, metres climbed 1458.
I was really looking forward to the ride today and was pleased to see that not only had the rain stopped but the sun was trying to shine through the clouds. After breakfast it was time to get out on the bike and onto the Gower. This is one of my favourite places, I contemplated which way round to Go and which places were most important to visit. I couldn't do it all unfortunately. I went out on the north Gower road stopping first at Pen-Clawdd and onto Llanmadoc, past Weobley Castle. After Llanmadoc i returned on the same road, before heading on the little roads to Llangennith. I was really struck cycling round re the similarity with parts of the New forest. The animals grazing but also the open moor land etc. At Llangennith a pack of horses were grazing, one with its foal, apparently however I was standing in its spot, it decided to have a standoff with me till I moved - only to follow me up the hill and go nowhere near where I had been.... I'm not that bad honestly.
I left the horses grazing happily and went off to Rhossili and worms head, my favourite part of the Gower. I had not realised how far out it was - only ever been there by car or bus before, it is further on a bike.....well maybe not but it definitely felt it. So the Banana and expresso were not only needed but appreciated. I headed back over the middle road, I didn't see some of the lovely bays on southern Gower but I am glad I choose to go that way, it shows a different side of the Gower but equally beautiful. It was a great ride and for once I had no close incidents with cars, a near miss with a sheep, who decided that the road was his. I quite agree but unfortunately he decide that as I was on it. We managed to negotiate it between us - what was it with me and animals?
By the time i got back to Swansea, I realised that I had got a little carried away and had completed 48 miles....and still had a long ride ahead of me. I had loved the ride and being back up there, I wish I had ridden whilst at university, the Gower would have been great riding and training ground.
As I got back to Keith and Christines' to pick up my panniers, the front wheel made a lovely sound as the air escaped. A quick tyre change and some lunch before it was time to say goodbye and begin the afternoon ride up to Carmarthen.
I headed back out to Gowerton and picking up route 4 and the up the millenium path towards Llanelli and round the coast to Pembury. It was a lovely route, dedicated cycling and walking path, round the Penisula. As time was getting on at Pembury i decided to pick up the pace and head up the main route. This meant faster roads, more traffic and hills - not a great combination, especially as i was getting tired. Carmarthen seemed to always be in front of me but never arriving no matter how many times i turned the pedals. Thankfully my time in Swansea had left my mind very preoccupied, thinking about the way life had altered for me since then and the influence that my time at Swansea and volunteering with SSCA had had on me.
I eventually reached Carmarthen but that wasn't the end of my journey. I needed to get food before heading off to the hostel for the night. I went on to find a supermarket and was glad to have gone slightly off planned route to go to Tesco as I realised the route i would have taken was not only a fast route but also wouldn't have given me access to the road I wanted.
I was tired by the time I had eventually found the hostel, a further few miles on from Carmarthen down the estuary. Initially it looked like I was going to be the only person in the hostel, but I was later joined by a few others. The owner of the hostel was lovely and i had a great time chatting to him and spending some time catching up on admin etc.
Day 28 (14th August) Near LLansteffan to Pembroke Dock.
Miles cycled 48.9 , climbed 1108 metres.
I continued down the estuary in the morning, into Llansteffan itself to have a look at the beach and the castle. The area is known mainly for its ties to Dylan Thomas. Although the neighbouring village of Laugharne is where he is known to have lived and written, his initial home was in Llansteffan and it is said that this is his preferred place, often heading back that way to the pubs etc. It made sense therefore that after visiting Llansteffan, I headed to Laugharne (this of course meant a few ups and downs on the hills - i am in Wales after all) and went to see the Dylan Thomas Boathouse and garage where he completed his writing. A visit to the castle and a tea room for a coffee ( I wont mention the Banana, Apricot and Nut loaf)- it seemed to be the touristy thing to do.
In normal Welsh tradition it started raining (well for me anyway) as I left the coffee shop, I waterproofed the panniers the best I could and hoped it hadn't set in for good. Thankfully it hadn't, i continued along the coastal route, my next stop being Pendine, the village known for being the place where the World land speed record was held. They used to hold the races across the sands as the older part of the village is all on hills.
The prize for deciding to visit this momentous place, a massive climb back out the other side. I joined (once i had found it) the NCN and followed this along through Marros and on towards Saundersfoot through Wisemans Bridge. There were lovely little tunnels to go through, but of course you had to get off and walk the bike through. It was a good thing as the tunnels(especially the first longer one) was very dark. It was hard enough pushing the bike through never mind trying to ride them through. The ride was lovely and it was great to be so close to the coast but as a lot was either shared path or trail, it was slow moving. I was constantly conscious of the time it was taking to make very little progress.
I stopped for a late lunch overlooking Tenby bay, I love that beach and it reminded me of being there with my sister and family the year before. The memories were lovely but it did make me miss them. As often happens with the bike, i struck up conversations with people around me, in particular three ladies who were interested in how everything i manage the everyday on the bike as well as planning ahead. They were struggling to grasp that i was out there on my own touring, it was just so different for them. I had to admit I had help from Home re the organisation. The questions gradually got a little personal - ie sitting on the saddle all day etc. Love it that cycling brings about these conversations.
The slowness of the day was making me feel more tired than usual and the number of miles the day before was not helping. I was struggling and my legs were feeling tired. I therefore made the decision not to push myself to hard and after following the coast to freshwater head straight from there through Lamphey onto Pembroke. I also had a couple of phone calls to make re my accident and solicitors chasing me for information. The accident had been on my mind over the last couple of days, as i had had a near miss earlier in the week with a car and it had brought it all flooding back. I do wonder if i will ever feel as confident or comfortable on a bike as I used to.
These were the thoughts that stayed with me as a cycled through Pembroke and onto Pembroke Dock where i was staying with a Warm showers host. Lawrence and Marina were great Hosts, making me feel very welcome and comfortable. There were two of us staying that night, Louis an aussie on his way to Ireland and Myself. It was great to have compare notes and share ideas and plans. The two boys a little more adventurous went for a swim that evening - I can honestly say I wasn't even tempted.
Day 29 (15th August) Pembroke Dock to Newport (pembs)
Miles cycled 63.65 , Metres Climbed 1,394m
The started really well, with a lovely send off from my hosts, The tyres had been pumped up and the bike felt like it was running really well, so okay, I could have done without the weight of the panniers. So okay the first part of the day was a hill, but that was quickly forgotten as i cycled over the bridge. I am always struck by the views from the bridges - Its a real feeling of freedom I get cycling over them. I cycled straight down the A487 to Milton Haven, under stormy skies, I was trying my hardest to stay in front of them all the time and it seemed to be working. I had forgotten how industrial Milton Haven could look and the skies seemed to add to this, I love the pictures I took from there. I didn't have time to stop though, i had decided to make an important trip down to the penisula and to Dale where a friend was staying with her Children. I knew i wouldn't get much time with them but wanted to be able to have a coffee and catch up. It was great to see Rachel and in one of her favourite places. I can really see why she loves it so much there. It is a special place.
I stayed for as long as I could but all too quickly it was time to move on, after lots of hugs and goodbyes, I headed - you guessed it back up the hill and began to cut across country towards little haven and Broad Haven. It was only as I approached Little Haven I remembered Dads Text and realised I had misread it - apparently missing Little Haven was a better option due to the 20% hills. Whoops....That will be me pushing the bike for a bit then... particularly due to the turning and corner at the start of the hill - i was doing well but on meeting cars we all ground to a halt - literally. Thankfully once through Little Haven it was slightly easier and less steep. It is difficult as the steepness of the hills seems to correlate with the beauty of the views. One problem being you are often a little too preoccupied too stop and take photos. The road led me onto Sta Davids, offically the smallest city in the Uk.
It was such a lovely place, i didn't get chance to have a proper look as after stopping for some lunch, the stormy skies caught up with me and the heavens opened. It was time to push on, well all the way to the edge of town when the shower turned into something a little harder.... so i stopped to waterproof myself as best I could in the shelter of a deserted outhouse in the rugby club.. before setting off again. That was it in terms of the rain, it was with me for the remainder of the day. It was a pleasant few hours on the Road - not, so the most direct route seemed sensible - no little winding routes or really steep hills. I was grateful this road goes near the coast, so i was still at my closest point at times and could still see it through the rain and wind. The rain was bad enough but it was the wind that got to me, blowing hard rain in your face really hurts, and makes it tough to see with glasses on and off.
I could tell the views at Fishguard would have been lovely, especially from the NCN route I picked up to get me through Fishgaurd. I regretted this decision - as it took me up a winding hill, back on myself and took me longer than had I just kept to the road - I knew I should of kept to the road. The diversion was disheartening and nearly had me in tears but i knew it wasn't that much further on. I pushed on through and eventually and I mean eventually found my way to Newport. I have never been so pleased to see a town sign. I needed food and didn't want to have to go back out again once in, so a quick stop at Spar was required. I am not so sure they were as pleased to see me , as I literally dripped my way round the store - leaving little pools of water if I stood still for too long. Exiting as quickly as possible I made my way to hostel and this meant a welcome warm shower and starting the process of drying myself and my belongings out. I have a new found respect and like of drying rooms. I was sharing my room with two other ladies, they were very patient with me, spreading out all over the room to make sure things were not getting wet and had a chance to dry out. Thanks so much, it was great to meet you both and the others in the hostel. I really enjoyed meeting and chatting to you all.
Day 30 (16th August) Newport to Pennal
Miles completed 73.1 metres climbed 1583
My knee was twinging this morning, probably due to the constant wind and rain yesterday and I knew that I had a lot of miles to complete, this worried me a little as I can't afford for it to get any worse as this will just mean i have to have a few enforced days off.
I was impressed with how how well the drying room had worked , despite all the bikes being stored in there, and even my shoes were almost dry.
After a slightly delayed start - too much chatting on my part - I know so unlike me :o), I set of having decided to stay on the main road for two reasons. Firstly this would normally mean that the roads are faster and its easier to navigate - in other words I make more progress in less time. Secondly the hills are generally not as steep or narrow and therefore put less pressure on my Knee. I was grateful that actually the main roads were at times the closest to the coast, but it did mean at times coming away from the coast a little.
I had realised quite near the beginning of the trip that following the small, narrow country coastal roads, would often be very time consuming, not just in terms of navigation, but stopping to let cars past and steep hills, Following these all day , every day meant that little progress was made round the coast and would mean i would not be finished until Christmas next year. Therefore I am making decisions according to where to stay coastal and where sometimes I am a little further away on a slightly bigger roads. When I say bigger roads - this often means a B road instead of an unclassified. It also means I am less likely to encounter tracks, grass in the middle of the road and gates blocking my way. It can also mean I get a better view at times.
I really enjoyed today's ride, Navigation was easy as it was mainly following the same road all day, The weather wasn't amazing but was actually quite good cycling weather - well apart from the wind, and i was able to get a good rhythm going whilst riding. I did miss the little lanes a bit though.
I love this area of wales, it is so rugged and always feels a little wild. It was just before lunch however that i had a nasty experience with a bus on the road, it overtook me going up a hill, but at the same time a lorry was coming the other way. I was gradually getting squeezed off the side of the road, I am still not sure how we all stayed on the road to be honest and how the Bus didn't hit me. It was definitely the nearest i have come to a crash and immediately my mind went back to the accident. I had to pull up and gather my thoughts for a minute, but the shock had to come out and due to the dangerous position on the road , I had to keep on going - tears rolling down my face - trying to get myself back under control. I must have looked a sight. still cycling on and taking some deep breaths i gradually calmed and arrived in Aberystwyth, where i stopped for a spot of lunch, before cycling back out the other side. It was great to be back visiting the town, having not been there since a student. It hasn't changed a bit - well not that I remember - although I am sure someone has increased the slant of the hill that goes up past the University... or maybe it was just lunch legs not wanting to work anymore.
It did feel like a long day in the Saddle and i didn't think i was ever going to get anywhere, the miles on the signs just didn't seem to be going down and Machynlleth never seemed to arrive. Obviously it did eventually and I had made good time - however this wasn't the end of my journey as i was staying with Chris, just down the road in Pennell. Cycling through to Pennell, I cycled past a Snowdonia Sign - I had reached Snowdonia !!! oh my goodness, I can't believe it. I love Snowdonia and was looking forward to cycling parts of it - grateful for the fact I was skirting the edges and not climbing the big passes in the middle.
I reached the accommodation at the same time Chris returned from her day out - talk about great timing. It was a lovely place to stay, Chris and Pam really looked after me and was fab to have a relaxing evening with them both. I have loved seeing Chris again. It really reminds me how important my time was at University and how this shaped my life and the role that Chris played in that. She has influenced so many people and given students such great opportunities whilst at University, from which they will have learnt and grown as individuals. I know I did.
Day 31 (17th August ) Pennal to Penrhyndeudraeth (nr Portmadoc)
Miles completed 43.4 Metres climbed 530 metres
Before leaving today, it was a quick trip to the Laundrette on site in order to dry my clothes, I got a few weird looks as I also took the opportunity to have a little repack. My socks refused to dry out however, so it was time to make a little drying rack on the back whilst cycling along.
It was a beautiful ride today round the coast, with lovely villages and scenery, cycling through Aberdifi, I saw the perfect shop for me called 'Ettas Nest'. I managed to pull myself away. I had the sea on one side of me and the mountains on the other, the scenery a little distracting and slowing the cycling down. One of the villages i cycled through, Llwygwril, were having a festival of some sort and had lots of knitted displays around the village. My favourite were the bikes - cant think why!!
As I moved further round the coast I was able to pick up the bike path that takes you along an unused trainline, that took me across the estuary to Barmouth, The initial bit of the line, was great to cycle along, however the bridge over the estuary was on a bridge made from planks, it got a little bumpy, never easy with a loaded bike, but especially not easy with the wind also hitting across at you. I was pleased to reach the other side and solid ground. After a blustery lunch in the harbour, it was time to move on and try and reach my destination for the day before rain started. I am pleased to say I managed it and arrived at the Warn showers hosts before the down pour started. It was a great place to stay, Rich and Kate are very passionate about their cycling and have a large number of bikes between them. It was great to compare notes on touring and get some ideas. They are a lovely couple, who really have thought about what it is like to tour and what it is that you want when arriving someone. They have exciting plans for their house and i look forward to seeing the development. I am definitely going to pop back and cycle the area a little more. It is really stunning.
Day 32 (18th August) Penrhyndeudraeth to Aberdaron
Miles cycled 41, metres climbed 642
Setting off the next morning, with lots of supplies - thanks Kate and Rich, I was heading out to the Llyn peninsula, I had been told about the beautiful views and was looking forward to it. I loved the cycle through to Portmadoc and seeing the train.
I had been given lots of good local knowledge about the villages around and where to stop. I had a little mooch around the various places - Cricieth was probably my favourite. It was a tough morning :o)
III had been given lots of good local knowledge about the villages around and where to stop. I had a little mooch around the various places - Cricieth was probably my favourite. It was a tough morning :o)III had been given lots of good local knowledge about the villages around and where to stop. I had a little mooch around the various places - Cricieth was probably my favourite. It was a tough morning :o)
I got as far as Abersoch and decided that it was time for coffee and cake. Having found a nice little cafe and ordered Courgette cake - yes it was rather yummy, especially the icing, I placed the bike against a wall, where it was soon attracting attention. After a bit of a conversation, I was joined by three cyclists and their wives, who were down in Abersoch camping the weekend. It was great to meet them and have company whilst having coffee. I love hearing about what other people are up to and how they have all got on. I was following part of the route the had taken that morning on their ride and therefore was dreading the big hill I had in the afternoon - sometimes knowing that there is a 20% ascent to combat isn't a good thing. I thought I would end up pushing but i didn't I made it up - i was impressed....although then going down the other way I wondered if i had hit the hill from the opposite side. The mist was coming in as I neared the top and therefore it was time to stop and put on lights etc.... it was at this time i realised the previous rain had actually killed off my main two lights.......NO!!! Thanks Dad for the emergency lighting you provided me with.
Descending down slowly - for fear of meeting cars I approached Aberdaron, Its a beautiful little village and I bumped into a few cyclists. I had to pop into the bakery (it is owned by the same people who own the hostel i was staying in) in order to pay my bill, it would obviously be rude not to have had a look and buy some bits. I have to say the chocolate and orange cake I treated myself to for pudding was amazing.
Leaving the village and heading up to the hostel, and yes of course that was an up, i could see that it was really beautiful but unfortunately the mist meant that I couldn't see it properly. Hopefully the mist will lift by the morning.
Day 33 (19th August) Aberdaron to Llangefni, Anglesey
Miles cycled 54.69, metres climbed 889
The sun was out for me in the morning and this meant that I could see the Penisula and the views from it. It was a beautiful morning and cycling round the country lanes was fab, i thoroughly enjoyed my time and just soaked up the sun - the first I have felt for a while. It does make such a difference and encouraged just to sit back and enjoy the ride. I did however this meant that i also was taking my time a bit and therefore wasn't making great process.
Again the sharing of local knowledge meant that I was painfully aware that a climb was coming and it was going to be a long drag. The only problem was I couldn't quite remember where, I really need to learn to pay more attention. I went up a few shorter drags and thought it wondered if that was the one......but oh no .... I knew I had reached it when I had. A long drag is exactly a good description for it, it was like being back climbing onto Exmoor. I was grateful it was a long drag and not a long and steep drag. As normal though the views were amazing. It is annoying that you often miss the good view points when on a bike. Numerous times I wanted to stop and take a picture but it just wasn't possible due to the road and by the time you can stop, the view has passed. I am sorry that I can't share these with you but have been so amazed at the scenery i have seen and hopefully have etched in my memory somewhere.
After the climb, it was a bigger and flatter road and i pushed on towards Bangor, pulling off the main road for a little rest at Aberdesach beach. My reward a puncture - so after changing the tyre, I decided it was also a good lunch spot. After lunch it was a tentative start to avoid another puncture, onto Caernarfon and after a quick coffee stop - is anyone noticing a pattern for my days, and then onto Bangor. I met a lovely man on the cycling route who was still on his bike at the young age of 83 - after quoting me some poetry, he gave me directions of a better route and sent me on my way. A very inspirational gentleman.
I however decided to have one of those moments and diverted into Bangor - taking me on a longer journey to the Menai Bridge - by a few miles. By this time I was aware it was getting late and I was due to be in at the Air B&B. I headed straight through the island and realised my ride the next day would be a little hilly. I was tired and ready to be off the bike and what a great welcome i had, I was made to feel so at home> Well actually more than made to feel welcome, I was looked after so well, offered a bath and cooked for. Joyce the host went so much further than I ever expected.
The next day was meant to be a ride round the island, however after waking up to a wash out, i decided to stay put whilst it cleared up. I waited and waited but it seemed persistent. Joyce offered to take me to see a couple of places whilst we waited but in the end actually took me on a tour of the island, to see some of her favourite places. It was such a treat of a day. I really enjoyed her company and being able to do the tourist thing without a heavy bike to consider. Thanks Joyce, I had such a good and restful time staying at yours, i would recommend anyone wanting to stay on the island, comes to stay with you.
Day 34 (21st August) Llangefni to St Asaphs (nr Rhyl)
Miles Cycled 64.57 Metres climbed 794m
So today was all about cycling the north wales coast and getting to Rhyl. I am not sure why but I felt a little out of sorts today. I Loved my cycle back across the island to Beaumaris and then on to the Menai bridge, but i was aware that emotionally I was feeling a little strung out. The hills in the island helped as they enabled me to push myself a little, and pace some of it out. The views from Beaumaris back towards Snowdonia were beautiful, a little misty but still showed the rugged and wild contours of the hills. The village itself is quaint and a typical looking sea town.
At the bridge I stopped with the thought of taking a photo, I couldn't quite get the shot I wanted and got ready to pedal on, I'm not sure how but my foot (on the pedal) seemed to clash with my wheel and I nearly went over, grateful that I was able to grab a nearby fence to stop me falling. I will have a nice gear shaped bruise on my leg and had a nice leg cleaning moment, but it could have been a lot worse, not to mention embarrassing.
As I neared Bangor, It struck me that maybe a stop and some Caffeine could help sort me out. I love Bangor pier and thought that looking over at Anglesey would be beneficial, its a peaceful spot. Stopping for a Coffee at 'Put the kettle on' a new business, I was again reminded of the good nature of people and given such a warm welcome. Thank you Anna for the coffee, banana and donation. I loved meeting you and hope that your business goes really well. Anyone in the area, please go and support her, the cakes looked amazing!!!
Meeting Anna and having a chat, did help me get my thoughts together and off I set again, Aware that I had a long way to go to reach my end destination but also aware that it was along some good and easy roads/ cycle path. I decided to follow ( well almost) NCN 5 all the way in. On Bangor pier I had seen a couple on a tandem and then they past me further on whilst i was dithering over directions. I caught up with them a bit further along and we stopped for a chat. They did invite me to join them for lunch, but i was carrying food and aware that i had some way to go, it was a tough decision but i declined and carried on my way. The NCN from this point was easy to follow and pretty much along the coast, at times moving a little further away as the expressway ploughs up the coast.
It was stunning coming along the coast and seeing the villages etc on route, however there were moments when pedestrians were not so impressed to find the cycle route going through their path. The shared space was beginning to wear a little thin by the time i reached Rhyl and I was pleased that the remainder of the way to my destination would not be as busy.
It was a real treat in the evening to meet up with Kris and Debs for a drink ( Colleagues from work). It is the first time in a while that I have thought about work, it was good to have a little insight into what is happening, but from another bases perspective, so it still feels a bit distant.
Day 35 (22nd August and Mark - my brother in Laws Birthday) - Its officially a day off but i have been on the bike - so it counts....
miles cycled to the bike shop and Prestatyn 13.8 miles
First things First - Happy Birthday Mark!!
So Although its a day off, I have been on the bike. It went in for a service this morning and came away with little work having been completed. She is holding up well. The bike shop in Rhyl is a great place, its a social enterprise and therefore it was good to be able to support them. I brought a few emergency bits for the bike - inner tubes, C02 Canisters and replaced my front light. The cafe does great coffee and food too - I know its me mentioning coffee again - but ask anyone it is synonymous with cycling.
Once I had picked up the bike, I cycled along to see the childline base in Rhyl. It was strange being in a work space again but great to visit them and see where my colleagues work. Thanks all for being so welcoming, it was great to meet you all.
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