Okay, having written all this once and lost it, I am going to try and summarise it in a briefer fashion. I may add to it later but want to try and catch up. You may well be asking why have I called this the forgotten corner? A couple of times on my way round this particular part of Scotland the local people referred to it as this. Everyone knows the Highlands etc but forget that when first crossing over the border there is a bit that sticks out to the west. It is a shame that people do not pay more attention to it, it has a different feel to other parts of Scotland, in a way it initially mirrors the coast line on the English side, but with massive sections of forest and the start of the hills inland. It a stunning place to cycle through and the scenery is breathtaking. It then turns a little more rugged and agricultural in Nature. Agriculture is a major part of the community and the farmers use the natural resources to aid their lively hood. The area is literally covered with livestock - both sheep and cattle, although there are definite areas that favour each. I have cycled past 100s of farms of differing sizes and specialising in different areas but all keeping farming very much as an essential part of the community. I had the pleasure of staying on two farms during this stretch and loved both experiences for very different reasons.
Day 40 (30th August)- Carlisle to Castle Creavie
Miles 84.6 metres climbed 869
https://www.strava.com/activities/1810062741/embed/f2ea2fd60e8dd3d511a996d15f03f7c2a554a2cd
Of course I have to mention a little of todays ride. It was kind of momentous, unfortunately having tried to fix some new mud guards onto my bike the night before and failing, it started with a visit to the bike shop. I was annoyed at myself for not having sorted this the day before but I really should have been able to fit them myself. Why is nothing easy with my bike?
Still it makes me feel better that even the bike shop had to take time and adjust the fittings as my bike was being stubborn. Still meant I had time for coffee 😄. Grateful to have new mud guards though but the late start was causing a small feeling of panic rising at the amount of miles to cover in a day and the time I was eventually setting out.
I had been really looking forward to this stretch of the ride, I loved cycling through Scotland before and wanted to enjoy it, I knew the Dumfries coast was stunning, but first I had to get there.
The cycle up to Gretna Green was a little familiar in places but I think I did a slightly different route than we had with Lejog. It wasn't the nicest of rides and that feeling of panic was bubbling all the time. It seemed to take a long time to get there but am sure that was just my urgency.
I eventually reached the Scottish border and stopped for a photo or two. It felt really momentous getting to Scotland. I was just starting my third country - okay so its a large one and I still have a large part of England to cover but this felt like the next big marker.
I didn't want to hang around to long before setting off again, as I still had a long way to go. I really wanted to enjoy today and therefore had to readjust my expectations and resign myself to the fact that I wouldn't be getting in till late. Although this is not ideal, it was reality and would enable me to enjoy myself. I had to give myself a few little words over the rest of the journey, to keep that feeling of panic down and a realistic expectation how I was getting on.
There were a couple of options on the route of loops I could take away from the main road that would take me along the coast. I decided to do one and not the other, as this would help reduce the miles, but still mean got to enjoy the ride. However having completed the first and then settling back along the main road, I discovered that part of the road was closed, with no diversion routes or clear indication of how far it was closed for. This meant turning round and go back to the loop I decided to miss out. Adding more miles to my journey instead of decreasing it. Still it was a lovely ride so I didn't mind too much.
The journey was lovely and I really enjoyed the cycling, I was ready to be finishing by the end of the day though, I knew it was a lot of miles that I was covering and with a loaded bike I was getting pretty tired. I was grateful to find i was nearly at my accommodation for the night and loved the part of the ride where I turned up away form the coast and inland a little, riding the country lanes and seeing the rolling hills, the little stone walls and sheep doted around.
I was staying at the Hay Barn at Castle Creavie a small hostel on an organic farm. I was really pleased to have arrived and had already communicated with the owner about buying some of their produce for dinner. Although it was a simple evening meal of a tomato omelette and bread. It tasted amazing. The eggs and Tomatoes were home grown and the plum cake - well that was just stunning and really good recovery food. I can honestly say that this was one of my favourite places to stay, some time to myself in a beautiful was just what I needed after such a long day.Time to reflect on what I had achieved and just enjoy the moment. I slept really well and wished I had time to stay and explore the area.
Day 41(31st August) Castle Creavie to Port William (yes that is Port William not Fort William)
Miles 64.34 metres climbed 714m
https://www.strava.com/activities/1810062902/embed/a3c3825011e6c78a442cfe0c24e092b5bd0c92d0
After a fabulous breakfast of muesli and bacon butties (from the farm) and a chance to have a chat with the farmers, really lovely couple and very supportive of my ride, I really want to come back another time.
It was a great way to start the morning cycling back towards the main road through the hills and country lanes. You could really get a taste for country Life. However having been in middle of nowhere I had been without good reception(not to mention just wanting to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet) and needing to sort out accommodation for a couple of nights time, my first stop of the day was Kirkudbright. It was great to make a little stop and have a look round the town. However it was to early for coffee so no stopping at all the little cafes. Once the admin had been completed it was time to push on. A lot of today's riding would be on main road which would be fast but busy. So I decided to take my time the smaller coastal road first. It was again a beautiful ride with the wind in my favour and enabled me to have a relaxing cycle before the main road. It was a bit scary at times with lorries thundering past but I held my line and they were all very respectful. After a while I found a little cafe stop for a quick break (okay I really need the loo, so a coffee stop seemed a good idea-no it wasn't that I wanted cake 🤣). It was a picturesque little place on the coast and obviously popular. However a little worrying that the police led away the cafe owner whilst I was there. Hopefully everything is okay and they just needed to talk to them.
Being on the main road meant I was able to move along fairly quickly and it wasn't long before I found myself at Newton Stewart. I had planned to stop for lunch their but decided to push on to Wigtown, the Scottish book town. I had really wanted to stop her to take a look round so this all worked out well. I loved the town and was welcomed by some buskers playing- I am sure they were there because they knew I was arriving. After a relaxing lunch i set off for the Isle of Withorn, apparently looking shattered according to someone who I met again later on 🤔😣😀
Although further than I realised I was glad I made the effort to get the as the little bay was fabulous and the sun was out. I initially thought I would have to cycle back to the Wigtown area as I had put in the wrong postcode for my accommodation. For once I was grateful that I doubted myself and checked again. I wouldn't have been happy if I had cycled back before realising my mistake. I was being put up for the night by friend of a friend at their farm. It is always a little nerve wracking turning up somewhere and introducing yourself to someone. Ann and Tom were great hosts, wanting me to feel at home in their place. It was lovely to be in such a warm and caring family environment and seeing the generations working together to on the family farm. I was able to ask lots of questions and feel I have a little more knowledge of dairy farming. I have always known what a hard life farming is but to witness it first hand was very humbling.
Day 42 (1st September) Port William to Stranraer
Miles 61.79 Climbed 699m
https://www.strava.com/activities/18123661991812366199
So it was a wet start to the day. I hadn't slept well, probably due to the fact I was worrying about having nowhere to stay. I really need to learn to not worry these things they always work out. I need learn to trust more. Thankfully my hosts didn't mind me taking a little time and making some calls to secure accommodation for the evening. Ann was amazing and ensured I was well fed and had a good packed lunch to take with me. Eventually though I had to brave it and head out into the rain.
It was hard starting of and everywhere seemed a little further away and longer than expected. It really felt like my head was not connected and couldn't really get focused. You have days like this but they are really frustrating when it happens. Still the is no option but to keep on pedalling. It can be tempting at times like these to take shortcuts and detours but you have to remember what set out to do and hold onto that resolve. Touring is not just a physical challenge but a mental one especially in bad weather. Although it was wet I was also getting warm.....cycling in waterproofs is always a bit of choice between getting wet from the rain or from sweat, but I decided to shed a layer. ..thankfully it was a quiet road or I could have ended up flashing at someone.
Anyway i digress, I was heading for the Mull of Galloway, the most Southern point of Scotland. It is meant to be very beautiful coastline. I realised early on that it was going to be a bit misty when I arrived and that made pushing on through the wind and rain hard. I also realised I had misread the mileage and couldn't understand how I was still so far away. It was like a never ending road. Food helped and I settled into the pattern of cycling, once realising the actual distance and how much impact the wind was having.
As I neared the area the rain started coming in again and it was soon joined by the mist. The last bit of the ride up to the point felt quite dangerous. I was pleased to see other cyclists out and that it wasn't just me in this madness. By the time I reached the point, the mist was in so much that I couldn't even make out the light house. It was a shame but at least I had reached it. I had something to eat and began the descent in the rain. I wanted to get down before it got even worse. Although as I made my way down it began to clear . Had I waited at the top I may even have gained some visibility to see but you can never be sure.
With the sun coming out and the wind in my favour, I headed back along the road I had just fought my way up and then headed on to Stranraer. It is amazing the difference the wind makes. It was so much quicker going back than it had been getting there. The miles just seemed to slip by and I was there before I knew it. Of course it started raining as I rode in.
Day 43 (2nd September ) Stranraer to Ardrossan
Miles 72.8 climbed 723m
https://www.strava.com/activities/1815554496
Today was a pretty uneventful day, the initial part of the ride was along a main road and therefore was fast. Unlike the day before it seemed as though the wind was with me and the miles just ticked away. I always feel a bit torn when the main road is the one closest to the coast as it often means that its faster but that also means you don't take as much info in from the surroundings. It is just more difficult to focus on anything but the road. When I could I diverted of to a smaller road which took me up to Ayr. I had been looking forward to getting there as I had heard it was a nice place and thought I would stop for lunch. How wrong was I. I managed to time my visit with the air show. People everywhere. Not easy to navigate with a bike, let alone one that doesn't do what you tell it to.
I actually felt really unsafe having it with me and just wanted to get through the crowd, there wasn't anywhere safe to leave it so I just had to keep moving. It was a shame as it would have been good to see some of the planes. They took a break as I arrived however so nothing was flying for a bit. I couldn't even find anywhere in town to stop easily with the bike so lunch was in sainsbury carpark - I sure know how to treat myself😉😉. I was grateful to be going up near the airport, so was able to see some of the plans taking off later. The noise a little distracting however as they zoomed overhead.
On leaving Ayr I was able to follow the cycle path on quiet roads through the golf courses. It was really interesting to see how popular they are in the area and how many.
I cycled on towards Stevenson where I was staying but had a little diversion into the harbour at Irvine. I may have been a little distracted by GRO coffee, where I treated myself to coffee and cake sitting in the sun. It was great to meet a fellow cyclist, Gordon and his wife, there and hear about their mad adventures 😄. However the sun didn't last and I rode into my accommodation for the evening in the Scottish drizzle.
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