So Storm Ali arrived in Scotland and this meant an enforced Day off at Durness. Ther hostel had filled up the night before and gradually people made their way off - or should i say those that had cars etc. I had decided to stay put for the day as ridiculous winds across the north coast didn't sound that fun to cycle in. I was grateful that Anna and Jason had decided to stay as well, as this meant some company. The day didn't actually start off to bad. well that is a relative statement - not as bad as i expected it to be.
However gradually the wind and the rain picked up and going outside didn't seem like such a great option. As i popped over to the shop to reinforce supplies, two cyclists came in, Derek and Harry, having braved the morning. They had decided to stop now though as was not at all pleasant out there and were stopping in the hostel overnight.
ondering over to the Hostel, another two cyclists were just coming in. Also having decided to stop as it was getting too dangerous out there. I take my hat off to them for getting out on the road. It did make me think that maybe i should have tried and could at least have made a few miles, but not having a massive schedule to keep i had the flexibility to stop and the winds were meant to be worse in the morning than they actually had been.
Anyway the decision had been made and so I was in Durness for the duration. The day gradually went by, i wasn't as productive as i should have been but then that is not new. i get easily distracted and people being around meant i was able to stop and chat lots. As the day progressed the hostel gradually filled up, lots of people not wanting to camp in the winds that night taking refuge. The winds really did pick up throughout the afternoon and evening and they continued overnight. The weather forecast changed and it looked like we were going to be experiencing high winds the next morning as well. Desperate not to sit still for another day, it was readjust the route time for everyone.
Day 54 (20th September) Durness to Tongue
Miles cycled 28.75 metres climbed 632
https://www.strava.com/activities/1856862372
The winds howled all night - I am so grateful for ear plugs. Even those people in cars were not keen to rush out in the morning, but gradually they emptied out of the hostel, leaving those on two wheels to wait that little bit longer. Anna and Jason heading in the opposite direction to the rest of us, hoped they would leave the winds behind a bit quicker, unfortunately i'm not sure that worked out.
Eventually the decision to leave was made - it was around 13:00 and i was grateful that Harry and Derek had invited me to cycle with them. I was a little worried to be honest that i would hold them up. They were travelling light in comparison to me, but my excuse being they were only out for a few days rather than a few months. They were great though, it was lovely to see family cycling together, being able to enjoy each others company and share such a great experience together. I know that the storm had put a bit of a dampener on everyone's experience but it will definitely be something we remember.
It was good to be out and moving again and even better to have some company, especially as it was still pretty windy out there. It was great to be able to see a bit of Durness, as despite spending time there we hadn't really been able to leave the hostel. The sun really lit up the bay as we were leaving and this accompanied by a Rainbow was a fabulous way to see the bay. Unfortunately there wasn't really a chance to get a photo - so it will just have to stay etched on my mind. Durness is a pretty special place and I do think I would like to revisit at some point and have a chance to properly explore. (Think moving to Scotland really may be easier - I seem to need to revisit everywhere :o))
The rain did start up but was not as bad as expected and despite the gusts of winds, i really enjoyed the ride. The scenery continues to Wow and the weather in some way enhances it. The north coast of Scotland is a Harsh area when it comes to weather, but this is what makes it the beautiful place it is. We did not see massive amounts of cars on the road and for that i am grateful. The gusts were literally sending the bike all over the road and it was difficult to control. Sorry guys if i almost took you out at any point. I must admit I was towed along at times but hopefully didn't take advantage to much and tried to take a little of the time at the front. It was nice to be able to get a little refuge from the wind at points though and tuck in behind one of them The Miles went by really quickly, its surprising how much of a difference chatting on route can make and I think all of us were ready to carry on cycling when we arrived in Tongue a few hours later. The delayed start had meant that we couldn't do a massive amount that day but just under 30 miles is definitely one of my shortest days. Still the next available stopping point was still some way on and i had booked into the hostel for the night.
Harry and Derek were also staying and i have to say it was lovely to have the company, I joined them for dinner and then we all got a chance to have a relaxing evening in front of a lovely Peat fire. The hostel at Tongue is highly recommended for this facility alone.
Day 55 (21st September) Tongue to Dunnet Head
Miles Cycled 62.92 metres climbed 1288
https://www.strava.com/activities/1856862513
So sleep was not easy to come by last night, mainly due to the fact people were moving around a bit in the room late in the evening. This is part of being in hostels, normally i am lucky enough to block it out (those ear plugs coming in handy again) but that wasn't to be last night.
Still a lovely breakfast of porridge and toast later - kindly made by Derek and Harry again. I was beginning to feel like part of the family - or well a guest of the family anyway. We were all heading the same way and again i had been invited to join them. Sandwiches were made and we were readily equipped and on our way. Harry had a puncture however - which worked in my favour (sorry Harry ) but i was running late and this gave me a little chance to get ready. It was only on getting out to my bike with my sandwiches that I realised carrying them was not going to be easy. I had forgotten that i didn't have full panniers and therefore my normal carrying spot was not there. Thanks Harry - he took them for me. Perfect Gentleman.
It was a pretty cold and Drizzly start to the day but this is expected in Scotland I decided. Today's journey would take us across the top of Scotland part of which i have previously completed when doing LeJog. My memory had told me it wasn't really hilly and the terrain fairly okay, so the initial part of the day was a bit of a shock. To be fair I hadn't completed all the journey previously and the first few hills were definitely the worst. They were those long drags with a few steeper sections, I have to say though they are not my worst type of hills and i just settle in to a rythym to get up them. I am not the fastest but i always get up. The wind was still quite blustery and therefore would still be those little bits of movement sideways every once in a while. It is a funny feeling when the wind gets the bike, but i was glad not to have full panniers as that would definitely have been worse.
Still it was a stunning stretch of road and again not too busy - maybe I just think that as i'm so used to traffic - i'm sure it was busier than the locals are used to at times, with a lot of North coast 500 traffic.
Still we were making it through the miles and it wasn't long before i recognized a stretch of the road. To be fair it was actually the hill I recognised, Betty hill, it was as windy going up the hill as last time but it does hold rather impressive views. So many memories can tumbling back of this stretch from all those years ago, I remember chatting to Helena as i made it up the hill then. It had been a great day cycling along chatting to her and i remember that feeling we had of reaching the North coast.
After a quick photo stop we pushed on through and the road gradually became more undulating and less steep. Actually it gradually flattens out and all of a sudden looking around you realise that you are no longer in the highlands, but the land is flat and far more agricultural in nature. Of course that also means that the wind comes in a lot from the side. I was sad to leave the landscape that we associate with the highlands. I had not been to Scotland prior to Lejog and had fallen in love with the Highlands then. I had always wanted to return, it was a special time then and I was not at all disappointed this time. They are a truly special place and i will definitely be back. There are so many places to discover and explore. My bike and i will be back, when i have more time and less distance to cover.
I loved todays cycling - it was not just the company (although that was great), the landscape or the memories, but partly the realisation that i had done it again.... i had again cycled myself to the top of the country - that is no small achievement.
We stopped in Thurso for the guys to grab some dinner and whilst waiting outside the shop, i bumped into the couple from Applecross. It was great to see them again and compare a few tales of our travels. i had hoped to see them at the campsite - we were staying on the same one but unfortunately we didn't catch up again. If you are reading this - Thanks for the support and encouragement. I hope you had a great rest of your holiday.
I was meeting up with Mum and Dad again in Dunnet head but my Cycling companions were going on a little further towards John o Groats. Approaching Dunnet head bay i could see the caravan park and knew this was where we were staying - Sure enough there was dad Camera at the ready.
We stopped briefly to say hi, before heading on our way - i wanted to go out to Dunnet head and they wanted to move on. Before long it was time for me to turn off. I was sad to stop and say Goodbye. I had loved having some company and meeting the guys. They had not only been welcoming but really made me feel looked after and thought about. I hope that they enjoyed their trip as much as I was enjoying mine. They will be a really special part of my memories from this time. Storm Ali really shaped my experience along the top of the coast and without it - i wouldn't have met and enjoyed my cycling buddies for these days.
Having said goodbye it was time for me to head off up to Dunnet head. Mum and Dad were already on the way up and it was a little bit of a cycle ride. A little bit of a ride into a head wind that is.....it was by far the worst head wind I had experienced for a while and was mixed with a side wind and massive gusts. The bike was all over the place and it was difficult to hold it on the road. This had not quite been the plan but my hope was that by battling my way in i would have the winds behind me on the way back.
I eventually made it up there - the most northern point on mainland Britain. It was fab to have Mum and Dad up there to experience it with me. We didn't stay long however as the wind was incredibly strong. At points my bike was literally being blown into the air sideways. The cycle back down could be interesting. we had spotted a little cafe on the way back down. This would be our meeting place. I was right the cycle back was a lot easier but those gusts did try to take me a couple of times. I really deserved the cake I had at the cafe.
After a little sustenance it was back to a very blowy campsite and of course a little rain. This would be my last night on the north coast. Tomorrow would be another massive day, but for tonight i was going to savor the achievements already reached.
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